more catch-up

Ok rapid-fire approach to catching-up through pictures.

 

Easter Island. I went with my friends Samantha (the blonde in all my photos) and Lauren and Katie who are roommates from University of Wisconsin. I know the fun of reading a blog is not to see simply the photos of the places one has been but the quirky stories that come with them, but I’m leaving for Patagonia in three hours so you’re gonna get what ya get and don’t get upset.

Just about in the middle of nowhere

 

Volcanic crater. 5 times larger than the national stadium here in Chile. So about 4 FedEx Fields. BIG

 

View from the quarry where the Moai were dug

 

Moai at sunrise

We woke up before dawn (the roosters assured us of that before our artificial alarms even went off) to see the moai at sunrise. It might have been worth it…

Horse. Me. Getting along surprisingly enough

Our tour guides: fishing, cooking, eating

Our tour guide for the 4 hour horseback ride we took. We stopped about three hours in for lunch. And by lunch I mean he and the other guide fished in a little inlet. We then cooked them on hot stones over a fire. Tasty with a little lemon and salt!

The destination- a little taste of paradise

There are plenty more photos on facebook. Or you could just wait until you see me to hear the rest of the stories and see the pictures (might even get both at once)

 

Puerto Varas y Cochamó.

Ben and I took the 13 hour night bus down to the lake district to do a bit of canyoning and trekking. What is canyoning? Essentially playing around in a river and jumping off of high places into water wherever the guide all the while yelling “canyoning”. Photos:

 

Canyoningggggggggggg!!!

 

Sliding backwards down the river!

 

The big jump

The waterfall we rapelled down. Also me standing on water.

It was both as cool and as gorgeous as it looked.

The long, wet hike

 

The next day we bused to Cochamó. We then hiked 16k in the rain on the worst path I’ve ever hiked. This was pretty much the best it got. After 30 hours of rain, this was all underwater. Great 20k hike back to Cochamó drenched from head to toe. Literally everything. BUT I had great company so we got through it.

 

 

So going to the airport in about an hour and half to go to the end of the world. PATAGONIA HERE I COMEEEEEE. I’ll hopefully see you (mystery reader) when I get back home, December the 18th. Swing by the house, I’m sure I would love to see you.

Smile more,

Paul

 

Catch-up time

So this is my first post in a couple of months. I will not apologize for being busy so here is the frantic catch-up.

Medoza, Argentina: The wine was cheaper than the water. I ran off a cliff and paraglided and ate a lot of steak. Photo time!

crossing the Andes- spent 3 hours at the border crossing- making a 6 hr bus ride 9!

In the sky, after running off cliff

San Pedro de Atacama: The driest desert in the world. Six days adventuring with fellow exchange students. It was an ecclectic group: a Dutch New Yorker who thinks no sentence is complete without the F word, three Americans, one Frenchman who speaks like inspector Clouseu, and two Australians who I royaly ticked off by the end of the trip with my Crocodile Dundee accent. What we did:

Mountain biking on Tatooine

Felt like a mix of Tatooine pod racing and 127hrs, minus the whole 127 hours of pure agony and sand people shooting us.

We ate a lot of sand that day. I also fell asleep at the restaurant that afternoon.

Tired, sandy, and a little burnt, but darn satisfied

They said it was more like surfing than snowboarding, although Liza (Aussie 1, next to me) was a pro after snowboarding her whole life. Either way, tremendously fun.

Biking adventure

Some of us rented bikes again and rode out to Valle de la Luna- although one of the pedals on a bike broke, resulting in one of the funniest scenes thus far on my trip. Emilien (frenchie) rode on the handlebars of Daniel’s (Aussie 2) bike while I rode my bike and steered the broken bike. This lasted about ten minutes until a pickup truck stopped for us. We put the broken bike in the back and Emilien got a ride the rest of the way. Kindness of strangers!

Dunes at sunset at Valle de la Luna

STAR TOUR

The moon.

Because the Atacama is the driest desert in the world, there are no clouds- sorta perfect for stargazing. We went on a tour to the middle of the desert with high powered telescopes. Imagine moons of Jupiter, galaxies and southern constellations out the wazoo. This was taken through one of the telescopes.

Splish splash, takin a bath

Salt pools and salt flats: I literally walked into the pool and started to float sitting in the water. Awesome especially since skinnyoldpaul can’t do a backfloat to save his life.

some native fauna- thanks to ben for the photo

Gysers at 15000 feet at 5:30am

We got up at 4:30 to go for a drive to the gysers of the Atacama. It was seven below celcius and windy-I wore all the clothes I brought and was still freezing. Awesome.

Next post- Easter Island.

keep smiling,

Paul

Cafes and cavorting

I admit I am terrible at keeping this blog up to date, so I’m just gonna do the best I can from now on.

Valparaiso for Fiestas Patrias:

Samantha and I made our way a couple hours northwest to the city of Valparaiso for Fiestas Patrias. I did most of the planning for the trip, so naturally nothing was planned. Did we go to Pablo Neruda’s house? No, but we strolled aimlessly around the city, ate a ton, visited the naval museum and found a delightful cafe we visited four times over two days, quite aptly named the Color Cafe.

All sorts of charming

Some of the best mushroom soup and hot chocolate I’ve ever had.

 

How great are those mugs?

Our hostel owners invited us to a fonda (block party) the first night- full of chileans dancing the traditional cueca, cups of wine and grilled food. After that we went to a bigger party-a few thousand people bigger- that consisted of huge dance tents with live music (more cueca), carnival games and a yes, more food.

One of the many ascensores of valpo (the city is built on a hill)

Next day we went to the military parade, stopped by Color Cafe for a mid-afternoon snack, cooked at the hostel and drank more wine. Ben met up with us that afternoon so naturally we had to go back to the Color Cafe after dinner. The next day we went to the beach at Viña del Mar, about a 20 minute bus ride away- we sat on the beach, threw the frisbee around and yes, ate more.

All in all, it was a tremendously relaxing weekend spent with a couple of very good humans.

Sneak peak from my weekend trip to Mendoza, Argentina: steak, paragliding, wine and more steak.

“Humanity has advanced, when it has advanced, not because it has been sober, responsible and cautious, but because it has been playful, rebellious and immature.”                                       -Tom Robbins

 

Paul

Pruebas, performance night, and prospective pickpockets

First things first- I returned to class and had my first full week of school two weeks ago. The viceroy/principal of the school ordered the professors to hold class regardless if students were attending. Since at this point my parents were starting to worry that they paid a semester’s tuition for no class, I’m glad classes got started again. However, the Chilean students were striking, so my classes were populated by the international students and few Chileans not taking part in the strike. The next week, the humanities students voted to temporarily suspend the strike- So in the month and a half I’ve been here my I’ve gone from 50 students in each class to 2.5 weeks of no class to 15 students back to 50.

Unrelated photo of the Bank of Chile workers striking:

I held off on posting another entry for about a week waiting until I had something interesting to write about- then three days in a row, boom! Blog topics galore!

Part 1: Prueba

Monday I had my first Chilean test- I hope I effectively compared and contrasted the Atacama and Patagonia regions, described the rise and fall of salitre mining in the north and sheep herding in the south, and enumerated the failures of the Bourbon reformation in the Aisen region. Can you?

Part 2: Performance night

Monday afternoon I returned home to find the power was out- my host dad forgot to pay the bill! Anticipating an internet-less evening, I took out my host sister Cami’s guitar, strummed one cord and snap went the D string. I asked Cami when the last time she had restrung it and if she knew how for her particular guitar. Answers: never, no idea. I spent the next two hours restringing all the strings(yes two hours, it was my second time) with the last twenty minutes spent sitting on the curb under the street light.

The lack of electricity led to one of the best nights I’ve had with my host family. Instead of going to bed early, we decided it was performance night. Cami and I swapped the keyboard and guitar back and forth while the 9 and 10 year olds just made silly noises from the couch. She loves Justin Beiber and Avril Lavigne while the 10 year old cannot get enough of Linkin Park and Greenday. Regardless of my opinion concerning their musical preferences, all of their songs are really easy to follow on guitar and piano (Greenday uses the same 4 chords in all of their songs. All of them.). Thirty minutes into the terribly off-key singing and minimal bleeding from the ears, the phone beeped, announcing the return of electricity- sending the boys to the tv, Cami to her room to belt out Hannah Montana, mom to her room for her telenovela and me to mine to catch the end of monday night football.

Before I get into part 3, here is a photo from the day hike I took on Saturday with Samantha and new guy Seth:

Seth and I on the mountain- with the lovely smog of Santiago behind us. We like to pretend it is mist

The aforementioned third installment: The prospective pickpocket

On my bus ride home on Tuesday a young guy sits next to me on a relatively empty bus (plenty of free seats other places). After about three minutes he asked me if the bus was going to the mall- it was and I told him as much. He asked me if I was Chilean, to which I responded, does it look like it? I’m wearing shorts? (It was 78 degrees outside and all the Chileans were still in pants and sweaters). The rest of our conversation went a little like this:

Exchange pleasantries- where are you from, what are you doing here, how old are you sort of things…. He claimed he was 25- he didn’t look a day over 19- and that he robbed people for a living. He then points to his belt buckle-area and grabs what looks like a rectangular cell phone-shaped object and tells me it’s his gun. At this point I’m thinking, ok, this could be an interesting bus ride.

He takes out a wallet he “just stole,” that just happened to have his ID in it already. He asks to see my wallet, so I take mine out, show him how empty and cruddy it is. He looks at it for a second and agrees.

Aside: Chileans are hard to understand. Chilean young people are tremendously hard to understand, even for someone as well versed in lazy spanish as me. There are moments during this conversation where I don’t really catch what he is trying to say.

We continue to shoot the breeze back and forth about life and he scoots closer to me on the two-person seat, sees my camera in my pocket and asks to see it. I say no, he asks why- well, there it is mine and there is nothing to take a photo of. He then says he is leaving with my camera- pointing to his crotch again, now covered by his jacket. He slips his hand under his jacket and motions to me to give him the camera. I ask him if he is going to shoot me on the bus in front of 15 people, and reach my hand under his coat and touch his gun-less hand.

He gets off at the next stop.

Paul- 1, Wannabe Chilean robber- 0

 

Also there was an 5.5 earthquake on Tuesday night/Wednesday morning- when I woke up on Wednesday morning I thought I had dreamt it- felt like mild turbulence. My first earthquake experience- Take that east coast!

Thats all for now- tomorrow I am going to the Red Hot Chili Peppers concert then up to Valparaiso for three days to celebrate Fiestas Patrias- Chilean Independence weekend!

Smile more,

Paul

A proclivity for protestation and pisco

As I mentioned two weeks ago, students across Chile have been on strike for education reform. Since then, I have had two complete classes, as the student unions of the various humanities departments at my campus of La Católica voted to join the strike indefinitely. What does this mean for me? Each day I show up for class at the appointed hour, because no one is sure if the professor will show up and decide to teach. The exchange student office has been tremendously uncommunicative, and the professors rarely use email here. (If you have no interest in the news and care only about my adventures, skip ahead now)
The protests and strikes have grown over the last two weeks in size and in scope. What started as a student-led movement for a revision of education costs has ballooned into a nationwide movement demanding constitutional and economic reform.  The national strike on Wednesday and Thursday included students, teachers, bus drivers, and many other labor unions. The protesters claimed there to be almost half a million people at the marches- the government said there were fewer than fifty thousand.
I was strongly encouraged not to partake in the protests by the international office at Richmond and La Católica. I’m glad I didn’t go, as 1200 people were arrested, two police officers shot, 59 people injured and a 16 year old was killed.

the scene downtown

Here are some good photos of the protests from NPR
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=139888085
Last weekend I travelled seven hours northwest to a town called Pisco Elqui with Ben and two new friends Tara and Rosa. We toured a pisco (a type of liquor) factory, ate tremendously well, went on a horseback ride and hiked around the town.
My first experience riding horse in eight(?) years started off pretty poorly, as I fell on him while trying to get on. Very smooth. He also did not want to cross a rickety wooden bridge (I wouldn’t have either if I weighed seven hundred pounds and had a human on my back) with me… after all that we got along swimmingly!

Me and my not-so-trusty steed

The ride was really just a walk, as the horses didn’t go any faster. Even so, the scenery was beautiful, and if we had been galloping the ride would have lasted half an hour instead of 2. And I probably would have fallen off.
The aforementioned food:

Steak and quinoa

A crepe with chicken, cheese and corn. Tremendous

Scenes from the hike:

La cruz

A couple of shots of the valley:

The charming town of Pisco Elqui

It’s a dangerous business, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no telling where you might be swept off to.
Smile more,
Paul

Wineries and Waterfalls Weekend

I stayed in Santiago two weeks ago (it was a holiday weekend) and went with a few friends on a couple of lil adventures. Friday I climbed to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal and got a splendid view of the city.

And just as proof for my mother, who asked me last week “Do you have friends?”

Anna, Stephanie, Samantha and I at San Cristóbal

Saturday we rode the metro to the outskirts of Santiago and taxied over to the Concha y Toro winery, South America’s largest producer. Some of their labels are Casillero del Diablo, Don Melchor, and blah blah it makes a lot of wine. Most of the particulars of the tastings were lost on me- from exciting the tannins to the hints of figs- not to mention the different colors in the wine. Even so, the scenery was beautiful and the wine was tasty (even though there was no cheese).

vines

The old wine

And further proof that I have friends, or at least people who put up with me:

Me, Reilly, Ben and Samantha

Sunday was by far my favorite day thus far in Chile. Ben, Samantha and I went on a day hike to Carlos Apoquindo, a gorgeous waterfall just outside of Santiago. Naturally, Ben and I refused to study the map of the trails, so the three of us just took off up a path that looked good.  Of course, this method led us to the end of a trail, just the wrong one. After about a 25 minute detour and a bit of help from a hiker heading down the mountain, we found the correct path. This photo was taken once we escaped the smog:

Ben, Samantha and I (note the same people as the winery, not randos that agreed to be in a picture with me)

After about 3 hours we found the falls and stop for a well-deserved lunch. Here is the waterfall, and further proof of friends.

Would have gone for a swim, but the water was freezing...

Also, I have not had class in two weeks due to the expanding student protests for education reform. Will explain more in the next post!

Props to Ben for this photo- taken on the day hike with his nice camera and considerable photography skills

No big deal

Smile more,

Paul

the adventures continue

Classes have started, I’ve settled into my house in Los Condes, I now know both of the names of my host brothers (Luca and Stephan) and am getting used to the Chilean accent. It definitely helped that I “studied” in Sevilla last summer, because the accent is similar. As my sister would say, I speak lazy Spanish- I fail to annunciate my words- which works out just fine here! Here is what I wake up to clear mornings- a gorgeous view of the cordillera:

Just a little wake up call from nature

I take a micro (bus) to a metro to my campus-about a 50 minute commute. As of now I am enrolled in a geography of chile course, themes of chile and the americas, mexican history and culture, and chilean and hispanic poetry. We have a two week window to try out classes, an add/drop period of sorts, so my schedule might be completely different in a week. On thursday I was feeling particularly adventurous so I decided to do a bit of roofing- there was a convenient ladder in the men’s bathroom on the second floor of the student building with latch left unlocked. Here is the view of campus from the roof:

To the right is the campus church

I went to mass on wednesday afternoon and wow there were probably 400 people there, a mix of students and professor types. The music was lively, with a chorus and guitar leading the way. I don’t know the songs yet, but a couple more trips and I’ll be singing along with the students (imagine that, a whole group of 19-23 year olds actually singing at church-made my heart sing).

On friday I went down to the international police station and the Civic Registry to register my student visa and get an ID card. After a grand total of four hours and twenty three minutes of line-waiting, I got a card that told me to come back in two weeks and wait in more lines!

A few observations from my first full week in Santiago:

  • dogs obey traffic lights- they wait at the crosswalk until people cross the street, and go when they do!
  • tear gas makes you tear up- if you haven’t heard, there have been a lot of protests regarding educational reform here in Santiago. While transferring trains on the metro on my way back from class I got a face-full of tear gas that the police had thrown down the entrance to the metro (protesting students had gone down to hide from the water cannons). The protests might not be as intense as the ones in London right now, but it sure felt real to me. Below is a shot of a secondary school- all the desks and tables are shoved through the fence- it is like this at all the high schools i’ve seen thus far.

Education protests

On Sunday I skied in the Andes. We got a great deal on the transport and rental-the lift ticket was just as expensive as ever though.
Here is a shot from the top of the mountain:
Above the rando’s head is a view of Santiago from 3500 meters. I took this as soon as I got up the lift- most of the rest of the day at times I couldn’t see more than ten meters in front of me due to the snow and fog (yes I said meters again- I’m trying out the way the rest of the world does measurements). Turns out six years later, I am still not a great skier, but the mountain was more of a big hill, so there nothing too difficult. I fell once- not flying off a sweet jump or navigating moguls, but at the bottom of the slope when I turned around to watch my German skiing partner Stephanie come down the hill. As usual I was easily distracted….
This is on the way down-

Andes

Here is a shot of the group, or at least some of us:

a great day with a great group- couple of frenchies, three texans, two washingtonians, an australian, german and a portuguese guy!

So here I am, still alive, still smiling. Although today my two friends and I had to evacuate the metro car we were on- the authorities didn’t tell us what was going on, but when I told my host mom what happened, she nonchalantly told me that suicide by metro train is popular in Santiago… there was nothing on the news about it so I’m not sure what happened. But I’m 90 percent sure a courageous young man jumped onto the tracks to save a toddler who had wandered onto the track, threw the baby to its screaming mother and lay down under the speeding train just in time- evacuating the train was just proper procedure after such an event.

I had bacon-wrapped steak on Saturday, a beer on a mountain and the Premiere League just started so I think I’m gonna do as Guillaume Apollinaire said, ”Now and then it’s good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and just be happy.”

Smile more,

Paul

Santiago

Beinvenidos a mí página sobre mis adventuras en Santiago, Chile durante mi semestre como extranjero!

Cada día claro me hace sentir como la mañana de navidad. Abro mis ojos a los ruidos de Dunckel (el perro de la casa) y veo la cordillera- un espectáculo precioso. Olvidé el cable de mi cámara, por eso no puedo compartir un foto mio, pero este va a servir por ahora.

Cordillera de los Andes

My host family is great so far- I’ve got Madre, Padre (Leo), Abuelita, Valentina (24), Camila (21), Lucas (11), and a ten year old, I just can’t seem to remember his name right this second, and Dunckel, el perro. The dog is a schnauzer weighing in at around 100 pounds and reeks to high heaven, but is well intentioned- he just never gets any attention from the family. He lives outside in a little covered enclosure, so never comes inside or gets to do anything other than bark and poo.

I live in Las Condes, the “rich people” neighborhood of Santiago. The house is quite swanky even for Las Condes standards. Five bedrooms, as many bathrooms, a nice sized backyard with a pool (even though its only 5 ft deep at most and could fit eight people, A POOL! Its like having a pool in a backyard in Brooklyn), built-in barbecue pit and patio area. Essentially, the perfect place for a summer party. Alas, it is winter here, and August, which means thirty days of freezing rain, sleet, and a smattering of snow.

The metro is quite easy to traverse- only issue is remembering which direction you want to be going. It is the buses, or micros, that have given me a bit of difficulty. I know how to get to downtown and to my school though!

I am taking classes at campus San Joaquín de la Pontificia Universidad Católica, or PUC for short. This is the view from the metro station:

Day 2 of classes is tomorrow, so I’ll be able to give a better explanation of my educational pursuits then, as I’ll have figured out a few more of my classes- hopefully.

 

Smile more,

Paul